Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics
| Sport Climbing at the III Summer Youth Olympic Games | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Venue | Parque Urbano |
| Dates | 7–10 October |
| No. of events | 2 (1 boys, 1 girls) |
| Competitors | 42 (21 boys, 21 girls) |
| Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics | ||
|---|---|---|
 | ||
| Combined | Boys | Girls |
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
Qualification[edit]
Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could enter a maximum of 4 competitors, 2 per each gender event. As hosts, Argentina was given 2 quotas, 1 per each gender event provided that they participate at the Youth World Championships. A further 2 quotas, 1 in each gender could be allocated by the Tripartite Commission. The remaining 36 places shall be decided in two qualification phases; the 2017 Youth World Championship and five continental championships.[1]
Shortly before the deadline for entries in September, The IOC informed the IFSC 1 additional female athlete and 1 additional male athlete were added to the quota for Sport Climbing, raising the number of qualified athletes to 21 female athletes and 21 male athletes.[2]
To be eligible to participate at the Youth Olympics athletes needed to have been born between 1 January 2000 and 31 December 2001.[1]
Although two athletes from the United States, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou, finished second and third at the Youth World Championship and were included on preliminary lists of qualified athletes, the United States Olympic Committee declined to allow them to participate, citing a fixed limit on the total number of athletes that it could send to all events, and a low prioritization of the climbing event based on the fact that USA Climbing had applied for recognition by the USOC but not yet received it.[3] Similarly, Chinese female athlete Song Yi Ling qualified through the Youth World Championship but was not included on the final starting list of athletes for the Youth Olympics.[4]
The qualified athletes were as follows:[5]
Boys[edit]
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 0 |
 Argentina |
| 2017 World Youth Championship[6] |  Innsbruck |
30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 15 |  Sam Avezou (FRA)
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship[7] |  Singapore |
5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  Bharath Pereira (IND)
|
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship[8] |  Nouméa |
13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  Ned Middlehurst (AUS)
|
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship[9] |  Montreal |
30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  Galo Hernandez (ECU) Rivadeneira Nickolaie (ECU)
|
| 2017 European Youth Championship[10] |  Saint-Étienne |
25–26 November 2017 | 1 |  Yaroslav Tkach (UKR)
|
| 2017 African Youth Championship[11] |  Johannesburg |
8 December 2017 | 1 |  David Naudé (RSA)
|
| TOTAL | 21 |
Girls[edit]
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 1 | Valentina Aguado (ARG)
|
| 2017 World Youth Championship[6] | Innsbruck |
30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 14 |
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship[7] | Singapore |
5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  Mao Nakamura (JPN)
|
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship[8] | Nouméa |
13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL)
|
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship[12] | Montreal |
30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  Alejandra Contreras (CHI) Cat Carkner (CAN)
|
| 2017 European Youth Championship[13] | Saint-Étienne |
25–26 November 2017 | 1 | Nolwenn Arc (FRA)
|
| 2017 African Youth Championship[11] | Johannesburg |
8 December 2017 | 1 | Angela Eckhardt (RSA)
|
| TOTAL | 21 |
Schedule[edit]
The competition followed the Olympic format,[14] with each athlete competing in Speed, Bouldering and then Lead. The ranking was calculated by multiplying the placing in the individual events, with a lower combined score resulting in a better ranking. The top 6 ranked athletes progressed to the final.[15]
| Q | Qualifiers | F | Final |
| Event ↓ / Date → | Sun 7 | Mon 8 | Tue 9 | Wed 10 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Girls' Combined | Q | F | ||
| Boys' Combined | Q | F |
Medal summary[edit]
Medal table[edit]
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Japan | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 2 |  Austria | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
| 3 |  Slovenia | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 4 | France | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Totals (4 entries) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 | |
Events[edit]
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Boys' combined |
Keita Dohi Japan
|
Shuta Tanaka Japan
|
Sam Avezou France
|
| Girls' combined |
Sandra Lettner Austria
|
Vita Lukan Slovenia
|
Laura Lammer Austria
|
-
Boys' combined victory ceremony -
Girls' combined victory ceremony
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References[edit]
- ^ a b "Qualification System: Sport Climbing" (PDF). IFSC. 29 August 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
- ^ "Sport Climbing YOG Quota Expands". Archived from the original on 2018-10-06. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
- ^ Waggoner, Kynan (July 25, 2017). "Letter to Zach Galla, Ross Fulkerson, Brooke Raboutou, Ashima Shiraishi, and Arabella Jariel" (PDF). USA Climbing.
- ^ "Qualified athletes for sport climbing" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
- ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing. (3 October 2018). Youth Olympic Games Preview: Sport Climbing's Game Changers [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2018/2018_IFSC_Official_Press_Release_YOG_Buenos_Aires_Preview.pdf
- ^ a b "World Youth Championship". IFSC. 10 September 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
- ^ a b "Asian Youth Championship: Youth A Combined" (PDF). IFSC. 9 July 2017. Retrieved 3 August 2017.
- ^ a b "Oceania Youth Championship Combined Results" (PDF). IFSC. 15 October 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ^ "Pan American Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC. 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ^ "European Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC. 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- ^ a b "Africa Youth A Climbing Cup Winners" (PDF). IFSC. 8 December 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- ^ "Pan American Youth Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC. 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ^ "European Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC. 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- ^ "Youth Olympic Games Preview: Sport Climbing's Game Changers". Archived from the original on 2018-10-05. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
- ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing. (9 February 2017). Sport Climbing Olympic Format [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017/2017_IFSC_Plenary_Assembly_Quebec_City_Olympic_Format.pdf