International Superstars

Twin Gate Mountain -Yangshuo China

Twin Gate Mountain -Yangshuo China

We had a few onlookers for our climb today at the ‘Twin Gate’ crag which was among the fields but much easier to find than yesterday (yesterday we set out to find ‘The Egg’ but a new road had been paved rendering our directions useless, and after getting lost among the mandarin orange orchards and wading across some streams with our bicycles we ended up at ‘Low Mountain,’ an entirely different crag a few kilometers away).

The farmers mostly just glanced up briefly as they walked by, though an elderly woman settled down to watch as she wove flower garlands to sell at a local park and another stopped to sell us dried persimmons.  A lone Chinese tourist came over to ask us “where you from?” When I told him America he got very excited. “NBA!” he exclaimed. “Kobe Bryant! Barack Obama!”. It was nice to finally meet someone who was enthusiastic about the US of A.

On our way back to the main road we passed villagers returning from the park (site of a 1400 year old banyan tree and a major tourist attraction) with small trained monkeys, some wearing bright orange outfits with tall pointy feathered caps – a new source of nightmares for Mark.  Dinner was stuffed eggplant and sautéd bok choy at the local restaurant across the street from our hotel, where Westerners get their dishes sterilized and shrink wrapped. It was delicious, we are going back for the snails which is what everyone else seemed to be eating.

The Mandarin phrase of the day was hot soybean milk (rède dòujiāng in Pinyin) which is my new breakfast staple. Mark is going through coffee withdrawl again as while you can pay extra at the Western style restaurants for “Yunnan coffee,” it’s only marginally better than Nescafe. That being said, there is no shortage of green tea here in China.

China: the final frontier (an introductory post)

Scene from Impression Sanjie Liu (not my photo)

Yángshuò is known as China’s backpacker haven, but there just aren’t that many here – at least, not in nearly the same numbers as in Thailand (may have something to do with the expensive and hard to get visas, or the fact that it was 5 degrees celsius when we got here, though it’s since gotten warmer).  What there are however, are Chinese tourists. Yángshuò is probably the most popular place in China for domestic tourism. And given China’s population density and ever expanding disposable income, that’s a lot of people.

That’s why even now in the off season,  there were still hundreds of people packed into the open air theater to see Impression Sanjie Liu, Zhang Yimou’s epic nighttime spectacle with the river and lit up karst mountains as backdrop.  This show put the Vietnamese water puppet show to shame. Its scale is so big that it is only conceivable in China.

Zhang is the filmmaker (Hero, House of Flying Daggers, earlier dramas like Raise High the Red Lantern) who was also responsible for the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony. Picture that transported to a riverside in Southern China, with a cast of literally hundreds of fishermen and hundreds of young girls dressed in LED enhanced ethnic garb – plus some water buffalo and cormorants- plying the river as their stage.  It’s pretty wild.

The karsts more than held their place among the dancers, singers and assorted animals though. These are similar to the beachside mountains in Tonsai, Thailand and the bayside ones in Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.  And yet different (just as each country we’ve visited has had its own flavors despite many communalities, like horn honking, sidewalk welding and fruit vendors).  For climbing, there are more vertical faces, allowing for more technical moderate climbs (as opposed to overhanging jugfests).  And there’s somehow a tranquility to these peaks; away from the battering sea air, they are less wild and deformed.