Shushu/Tong
Shushu/Tong, also stylized as SHUSHU/TONG, is a Shanghai-based fashion label founded in 2015 by designers Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang. Its design sensibility is inspired by girlhood, nostalgia, and retro anime and films.
Shushu/Tong was noted as one of a number of rising Chinese fashion brands associated with guochao (Chinese: 国潮; pinyin: Guó cháo), a fashion trend among younger Chinese shoppers to prefer homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture.[1][2] The brand has collaborated with Asics[3] and Charles & Keith,[4] for footwear, local brand Yvmin for a line of jewelry,[5] and Estée Lauder for holiday cosmetic gift sets.[6] The brand's collaboration with Estée Lauder was noted as the first time a global brand had collaborated with a Chinese fashion brand.
The first physical Shushu/Tong store opened in July 2022 in Shanghai JC Plaza.[6]
Founders[edit]
Founders Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang were both born in Chengdu and attended the same high school.[7] Both Lei and Tong were inspired by the anime Nana to become designers, although Jiang was briefly interested in becoming a cartoonist before realizing she preferred fashion.[7] The two met at Shanghai's Donghua University when studying fashion in 2014.[8] The two went on to acquire MA degrees at London College of Fashion,[9] where the two were flatmates and first conceived of the brand.[7] Lei spent time interning with Simone Rocha, and Jiang with Gareth Pugh.[10] After a failing to acquire a visa to stay in London,[7] Shushu/Tong was officially founded in 2015 in Shanghai.[10][2] The label's name is a combination of Lei's nickname, Shushu, and Jiang's given name, Yutong.[7]
Lei is the creative director of the brand, while Jiang is more involved on the marketing and client side, although she also has input on the design process.[2] Their first sales were made on Chinese social media platform WeChat,[3][7][9] before the brand was picked up by other stockists; social media has been an avenue which allowed their brand to grow despite not being located in a traditional fashion capital like Paris.[3]
Design and influences[edit]
Shushu/Tong is noted for its hyper-feminine style, having been compared to the coquette Internet aesthetic[10][3] and Lolita fashion.[2] The brand was noted for predating the trend of hyper-girly clothing after 2020.[3] Their designs often incorporate girly elements like frills, bows, ribbons, and pearls, as well as gingham and pastel fabric.[11][12] Works that have inspired collections include the Aim for the Ace!,[11] The Virgin Suicides,[12] Gigi,[10] and the protagonists of magical girl anime such as Puella Magi Madoka Magica and Cardcaptor Sakura.[2][9] The founders named Chloë Sevigny and Tina Chow as muses,[11] and Faye Wong as a perennial inspiration[3] as well as celebrity they would like to dress someday.[10]
Jiang also serves as a muse for Lei, as she models items and provides early feedback, giving a woman's perspective to Lei's designs. This may have contributed to criticism against the brand for their limited range of body shapes.[2]
References[edit]
- ^ Nan, Lisa (2021-07-07). "Can Shushu/Tong Go Global?". Jing Daily. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b c d e f Yip, Joyce (2023-02-09). "Inside Shushu/Tong's sweet fashion bomb with founders Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang". South China Morning Post. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b c d e f Hyland, Véronique (2024-01-04). "The Coquette-Core Label Reimagining Power Dressing". ELLE. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ Curtis-Evans, Kayla (2022-01-21). "SHUSHU/TONG x CHARLES & KEITH Are Shaking Up Femininity". Office Magazine. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ Bargeron, Sadie (2023-07-11). "Fendi gelato, Chinese footballers in Prada, and Yvmin x Shushu/Tong: China collabs of the week". Jing Daily. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b Wu, Wenzhuo (2023-02-11). "Estée Lauder And Shushu/Tong Pair Up For Valentine's Day". Jing Daily. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b c d e f Kurata, Yoshiko (2019-01-02). "The Dawn of a New History: SHUSHU/TONG". ssense. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ Balugo, Kleigh (18 December 2023). "Shushu/Tong Has a Fetish for Bows". Paper Mag.
- ^ a b c Lea, Tyler. "Shushu/Tong: Femininity with a Twist". Metal Magazine. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b c d e Kessler, Alex (2024-03-26). ""We're Designing For Our Dream Girl": ShuShu/Tong Is The A-List's Answer To The Coquette Trend". British Vogue. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b c Sarwar, Umar (2021-11-01). "The duo behind Shanghai fashion label SHUSHU/TONG reveal their creative secrets". GAY TIMES. Retrieved 2024-05-09.
- ^ a b Suen, Zoe (2 November 2018). "Shushu/Tong's Modern Heroines". The Business of Fashion. Archived from the original on 9 May 2024. Retrieved 9 May 2024.