We had a few onlookers for our climb today at the ‘Twin Gate’ crag which was among the fields but much easier to find than yesterday (yesterday we set out to find ‘The Egg’ but a new road had been paved rendering our directions useless, and after getting lost among the mandarin orange orchards and wading across some streams with our bicycles we ended up at ‘Low Mountain,’ an entirely different crag a few kilometers away).
The farmers mostly just glanced up briefly as they walked by, though an elderly woman settled down to watch as she wove flower garlands to sell at a local park and another stopped to sell us dried persimmons. A lone Chinese tourist came over to ask us “where you from?” When I told him America he got very excited. “NBA!” he exclaimed. “Kobe Bryant! Barack Obama!”. It was nice to finally meet someone who was enthusiastic about the US of A.
On our way back to the main road we passed villagers returning from the park (site of a 1400 year old banyan tree and a major tourist attraction) with small trained monkeys, some wearing bright orange outfits with tall pointy feathered caps – a new source of nightmares for Mark. Dinner was stuffed eggplant and sautéd bok choy at the local restaurant across the street from our hotel, where Westerners get their dishes sterilized and shrink wrapped. It was delicious, we are going back for the snails which is what everyone else seemed to be eating.
The Mandarin phrase of the day was hot soybean milk (rède dòujiāng in Pinyin) which is my new breakfast staple. Mark is going through coffee withdrawl again as while you can pay extra at the Western style restaurants for “Yunnan coffee,” it’s only marginally better than Nescafe. That being said, there is no shortage of green tea here in China.